Every year in the monsoon months, the streets and temple courtyards of Nepal turn red. Women in bright saris sing, dance and walk in procession for the Teej festival, one of the most joyful and most personal celebrations in the country's calendar. This guide explains what Teej means, how its three days work, why it matters to Nepali women, and how visitors can watch and take part respectfully. If you are planning a trip around festivals, our Nepal festivals calendar shows where Teej fits in the year.
What is the Teej festival?
Teej is a Hindu festival celebrated by women in Nepal and parts of northern India. It honours the goddess Parvati and her devotion to Lord Shiva, whom, according to tradition, she won as her husband after a long period of prayer and fasting. Married women fast and pray for the long life and wellbeing of their husbands. Unmarried women pray for a good partner. In practice, the festival has grown into something much wider: a rare time when women gather, travel back to their parents' homes, sing together and leave daily work behind.
When is Teej celebrated?
Teej falls in the Nepali month of Bhadra, which is usually August or September, during the monsoon. The exact date follows the lunar calendar, so it moves each year. The main day, often called Haritalika Teej, falls on the third day after the new moon. Check a current lunar calendar or our festival calendar a few months before you travel. Nepal also gives women a public holiday for the day.
The three days of Teej
The festival runs over three days, and each has its own character.
Day 1: Dar Khane Din. The day begins with a feast. Women gather at family homes and eat rich food, often late into the night, because the next day is a fast. The meal is a social event, with songs and dancing.
Day 2: The fasting day. This is Teej itself. Many women observe a strict fast, sometimes without water. They dress in red, wear their wedding jewellery and visit temples, especially Shiva temples, to pray. At Pashupatinath in Kathmandu, long queues of women in red form from early morning.
Day 3: Rishi Panchami. The final day is a day of ritual bathing and purification, dedicated to the sages. Women bathe with sacred herbs and offer prayers, symbolically cleansing themselves of past mistakes.
Why red, songs and dancing?
Red is the colour of marriage and good fortune in Nepal, and the red sari is the unmistakable sign of Teej. Women also wear green glass bangles, the red and gold necklace known as a potay, and the red tikka on the forehead. Teej songs are a tradition of their own. They are often witty, sometimes teasing husbands and in-laws, and they give women a space to speak about their lives, hopes and complaints. Groups perform them in circles with drums, clapping and dance, often for hours.
Where to see Teej in Nepal
Kathmandu. The Pashupatinath temple complex is the centre of the celebrations. Thousands of women in red arrive to pray, and the riverside and courtyards fill with music. Non-Hindus cannot enter the main temple, but the crowds, the processions and the singing are easy to see from the surrounding areas. Our Pashupatinath Evening Aarti Tour can be timed around a festival visit.
Across the valley. Neighbourhood temples and community halls hold their own gatherings, so you do not need to visit only the biggest sites. In Patan and Bhaktapur you will find smaller groups singing and dancing in the old squares, which are described in our guide to the Kathmandu Valley UNESCO World Heritage sites.
How visitors can watch respectfully
- Ask before photographing. Most women are happy to be photographed during celebrations, but always ask first, especially at temples. Never photograph worshippers at the sacred riverside close up without permission.
- Dress modestly. Cover your shoulders and knees. If you want to join in, you may be offered a red scarf or tikka; accept it with a smile and a namaste.
- Do not interrupt rituals. Keep a short distance from the people praying and do not step in front of the queue.
- Remember the fast. Many women are not eating or drinking, so avoid eating in front of the groups at the temple.
- Expect crowds and rain. Teej falls in the monsoon, so carry a light rain jacket and plan extra time to move around Kathmandu.
Our Nepal etiquette and dress code guide has more tips for visiting temples and festivals. For other cultural experiences to add to your trip, see the 10 cultural experiences you must have in Nepal.
Is Teej a good reason to visit Nepal?
It can be a memorable one, but it comes with trade-offs. August and September are the wet season, so mountain views are often hidden and trekking is harder. If you want clear skies, plan for October to November instead. If you are happy with rain and want a lively, local atmosphere, Teej adds a rare chance to see the city at its most colourful. Read our monsoon travel guide for what to expect from the weather, and the best time to visit Nepal to compare seasons. For a general introduction to Nepal's cultural life, see the UNESCO page for the Kathmandu Valley.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does Teej mean?
Teej is a festival for women, centred on Parvati and Shiva. It celebrates marriage, devotion and female friendship, and it includes fasting, prayer, songs and dancing.
Can tourists take part in Teej?
Yes, as respectful observers. You can watch the processions and singing and, if invited, join a dance circle. Women who are fasting are the focus, so keep a polite distance and follow their lead.
Do women have to fast for Teej?
Many do, but the fast is a personal choice and some women follow a lighter version. The first day is a feast, and the second day is the main fast.
When is the best time to see Teej in Kathmandu?
On the main day, go to Pashupatinath early in the morning, when the first groups of women arrive. Late afternoon is also lively in neighbourhood courtyards.